The continuous wildebeest migration in search of green pastures in the larger Serengeti and Mara ecosystems includes the dramatic crossings of the Mara River. This meandering river winds through the northern Serengeti, Tanzania and the Maasai Mara in Kenya. Therefore, between June and October the river crossings can be observed from the south (Tanzania) to the north (Kenya) and back again.
While the tourist season for the Serengeti crossings peaks between late July to September, the tourist density there is 3-4 times lower than in the famed Maasai Mara reserve. In fact sometimes – with a little bit of knowledge and luck – one can find themselves alone with crossing herds!
In the Serengeti, this awe-inspiring spectacle can be observed along the Mara from either the Kogatende (southern) or Lamai (northern) side along 12 main crossing points. Note that wildebeests may decide to cross anywhere, thus there are many intermediate places along the river one can observe. In my personal opinion, the views from Lamai side are more dramatic and spectacular when massive herds migrate northwards.
The mechanics of a regular sighting include spotting/getting info on which crossing point herds gathered day before, then positioning the vehicle a safe distance from the bank of the river (approx. 20-100m depending on the place) in the shade of trees. The waiting period can last anywhere from a few minutes to several hours… and sometimes, it may not happen at all, despite several thousands gnu moving right on the bank of the Mara.
Observation of the crossing can be sometimes nerve-wracking and not to everyone’s taste, especially when tens of safari vehicles ‘fight’ for the top spot along the riverbank when herds decide to cross. The number of vehicles can vary from 1 to over 50, which is still much less than the reported 100-150 on some crossings in the Maasai Mara.
- The so-called ‘decision of wildebeests to cross’ may sometimes take hours, thus patience is a must for anyone who wants to witness this incredible marvel of nature. Discipline must be exercised by remaining in the vehicle, which is key to not disturb the event – something that is unfortunately being violated regularly lately. However, efforts by Park Rangers and many conscious drivers/guides help to assure that everyone can enjoy this natural scene with the least disruptions possible.
Once the crossing starts, an orderly and peaceful alignment along the river will result in an undisturbed, spectacular crossing that may last for hours (depending on the herd size). We may witness wildebeest jumps from the cliffs, crocodile attacks, massive clouds of dust raised by moving herd and all other sightings seen on nature documentaries. Regardless of the level of drama you will witness, the memories of the unforgettable sound of thousands of wildebeest’s calls will last forever. The video and photo opportunities are limitless.
I have found myself that for spectacular wildlife photography during crossings, there isn’t a magic spot; there’s always an empty place to park the vehicle, creating an angle that allows for an interesting photo shoot. In fact, some of my award-winning photos from the Mara river crossing were taken from what initially appeared to be a bad vantage point. There may be the chaos of moving cars, but take a moment to admire and think about the photo(s) you would like to take, and then start documenting. Every crossing is different and can bring surprising sightings, all of which are unforgettable and amazing to witness. And please remember, it is the wilderness, sometimes crossings happen daily and sometimes we may face days without it. Therefore, my advice is to stay at least 3-4 days to maximize your chances to see this astounding wildlife encounter.
A couple of useful points (these are my opinions and may differ from others):
- The most dramatic crossing points: #5 and #4, possibly #6
- The most picturesque: #2
- The most crowded in a peak season: #3 to #7
- The most underrated: #1, #9-12
Is the sighting of massive herds crossing the river guaranteed? The answer is: no, it is not, as nothing in nature can be guaranteed. However, the combination of a carefully selected camp, best in the business guide and drivers and an intimate knowledge of wildlife behavior combined with some luck can do the trick.
